Malta 2024 – Bring a cushion.

 

BUS 111, King Long XMQ6127J entering Marsaskala seafront at high tide.

A third visit to this wonderful island and a third operator in charge of the public transport network. During the first visit the buses were operated by independents and their eclectic mix of vehicles; Arriva were in charge during the second visit and this year it was ALSA, using the Malta Public Transport (MPT) brand. The 430 buses are now a modern mix of King Long (diesel and electric) and Otokar, with Mercedes Benz making up the majority of the rest.

Pre-planning a trip is easy using the MPT website, and purchasing a travel card from the airport information desk could not be simpler. For €25 you get seven days unlimited travel on the network in Malta and Gozo, a single trip cost €2.50. Unfortunately, what you do not get is a comfortable seat as the buses are fitted with Kiel seats covered in moquette without any padding, hence the title of this article.

Stepping outside the airport terminal, the bus stops are directly in front of you. We were staying in Valletta, so required the X4 which operates every 30 minutes to the central bus station, although in reality you alight on Vjal Lr-Re Dwardu VII, just in front of the Triton Fountain.

Valletta Bus Station is a modern L shaped open-air concourse with the majority of local routes departing from the ‘A’ bays nearest to the Triton Fountain, whilst longer routes depart from ‘B’ bays, around the corner from the main concourse. Day 2 and the first bus of the day departed from bay A2, the 10.10am No.1 to Isla with a journey time of 23 minutes. Isla (Senglea) with an area of just over half a square mile is the most densely populated locality in Europe. The bus terminates in the heart of the town by reversing into a two-bus bay in the town square. After an extensive walk around the undulating streets, the next journey was to be on the 12.56pm departure of route 124 from Isla to Marsaskala. However, the bus failed to arrive and some quick thinking was required to find an alternative way between the two towns. The next departure was service 1 to Valletta and the solution was to take this bus until it reached the main road and then change onto service 91 coming from Valletta and terminating in Marsaskala, which runs every 12 minutes. Service 91 enters Marsaskala along the sea front, passing the bus terminus and doing a loop around the headland before returning to the bus terminus. Once a Roman port, Marsaskala is home to around 12,000 inhabitants and a pleasant place to while away a couple of hours. Service 91 would provide us with a final journey of the day back to Valletta, departing Marsaskala through the narrow back streets before entering an area of open countryside and returning to the densely populated villages of Fgura and Paola. 

Day 3 is another warm sunny October day and this morning’s departure is 9.50am on route 74 from bay A5 in the bus station, alighting in Zurrieq. Not the prettiest of routes as it skirts the industrial warehouses around the perimeter of the airport before serving the villages of Mqabba and Qrendi. The majority of passengers alight at the Ħaġar Qim Park Visitor Centre just before the bus turns onto the coast road and the remainder of the passengers alight to walk down the hill and visit the Blue Grotto. We opt to remain on board and continue to Zurrieq in the hope of getting a seat on the next bus which is coming from the airport. Zurrieq town square with its public toilets and cafe claims to have a bus station, in reality it is a bus stop used by seven routes. This morning, the first bus to arrive is a Mercedes Benz Citaro driver trainer, departing just ahead of our bus which is the 10.54am service 201. The 201 is a scenic route along the south west coast road, retracing our previous route 74 as far as the turning for the Blue Grotto. This time turning off the coast road and travelling downhill to the village of Wied Iż-Żurrieq, passing several passengers who alighted from the 74 thirty minutes earlier. Thirty-four years ago at this point the driver stood up, touched the effigy of the Virgin Mary, made the sign-of-the-cross, sat back down, released the handbrake and coasted down the hill on a road more rustic than it is today. The remainder of the journey has far reaching sea and coastal views followed by historic towns and villages before climbing to the hill top city of Rabat and the fortified citadel of Mdina 47 minutes later. The evening return to Valletta is a case of standing at the central bus stop in Rabat and boarding the first bus that comes along, having a choice of six routes. However, on this evening there are wide gaps in the services, and by the time a bus arrives it becomes a scrum to board. Not for the first time we will learn that in Malta there is no such thing as a full bus.

ALSA, Malta Public Transport BUS 650, Otokar Vectio C (9.6-metre). Sitting at the Isla terminus.

Day 4 and the longest day. Service 41 departs from bay B6 at 9.30am heading for Cirkewwa, the departure point for the Gozo ferry. A journey time of 1hr 53mins with much of the first half through urban sprawl between Valletta and Mosta, before hitting open countryside on route to St. Paul’s Bay and the coast, climbing to Mellieħa before descending to Cirkewwa. The next challenge is running the gauntlet of sightseeing ticket touts that stand between the bus and ferry ticket office, with just enough time to purchase a €4.65 return ticket to Gozo. Once on-board, time for tea and buns before arrival at Gozo and facing the next line of sightseeing touts and scrum for the service bus. From this point the day is flexible, getting on the first bus that comes along. A surprise to find a new Foton electric bus, operating the short park & ride service to the top of the hill, is sitting at the bus stop. First normal service bus to arrive on the stop was operating route 323 to the capital Victoria via several small villages either side of the main road. Victoria (Rabat) is the capital of Gozo: it is known for the medieval Citadel and has a bus station in the town centre. After lunch and a good walk, by late afternoon we are back at the bus station in time to board service 310 for the eleven-minute journey to the seaside resort of Marsalforn. We remain onboard whilst the bus makes a one-way loop around the town and alight at a central bus stop, just a few yards from the seafront. This is a ‘bucket & spade’ resort with a pleasant promenade filled with bars and cafes. The final journey on Gozo is service 322 back to the ferry and it is a real surprise. This is the most scenic bus route on Gozo/Malta, climbing through open countryside visiting the villages of Xagħra and Nadur before descending into the ferry port. Once back on Malta it was another case of first bus to come along heading in the direction of Valletta or Sliema, and it turned out to be the 41. The twilight ride gave the opportunity to see how the urban areas transform after dark.

Final full day and a short 23-minute journey on service 2 from stand A2 in the Valletta bus station to Birgu. The route was scheduled to terminate in the town square, however after serving the waterfront we returned to the main road and headed up hill to the coach park outside the Inquisitors’ Palace. No word from the driver, but as the engine was turned off we assumed this was the end of the route. A short walk down into town explained all, the square was under reconstruction with no vehicular access. Birgu, population 2633, is an ancient maritime city known as ‘Citta Vittoriosa’ and is packed with history, artistic and architectural interest as well as moorings for large super yachts. Late in the day, we rejoined service 2 on the waterfront, heading for a ten-minute layover in the coach park before returning to Valletta. 

It’s the final day and after spending the morning mooching around Valletta, as the rain set in, we head for one final time to the bus station and stand B3 for the X4 back to the airport. 

Malta is a wonderful out of season destination, with mild sunny days and easy to navigate by bus. At €25 the seven-day bus ticket is great value, provided you don’t mind a numb bum.

BUS 294, Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 516CDi about to depart the bus station on service 133 Valletta Circular.

BUS 216, King Long Amigo Electric departs Valletta Bus Station.

BUS 892, arrives into Zurrieq on service 201 to Rabat.

GVN 834, Foton C10 EV operating the Mġarr (Gozo) park & ride service.

Victoria (Gozo) bus station.

Bus and Coach World

Malta 2014

Malta ~ A return ticket.

 

Much has been written in recent months about the public transport turmoil on the island of Malta. Would it be better or worse than twenty-six years ago? All those years ago the 'iconic' grey and red buses provided a haphazard, erratic service, timetables indicating the existence of a service rather than a schedule. To put the operating environment in context, Malta is an island smaller than the Isle of Wight with a population of approximately 413,000 of which 30,000 live on Gozo and it derives 35% of its GDP from tourism.

 Valletta Bus Station on first visit.

Stepping out of Luqa airport the initial signs were not good. The airport is served by seven routes, six are a series of X routes connecting the airport to major destinations throughout the island and the seventh, 201 is a minibus route to Rabat (Mdina) via the Blue Grotto. With the exception of X1 all services were operated under contract to Malta Public Transport by many of the island independents with an assortment of minibuses, buses and coaches in a multitude of liveries and showing signs of many years in service. More impressive was the infrastructure, the grumpy assistant behind the former Arriva information desk issued a euro 6.50 weekly travel card (since the demise of Arriva this ticket no longer covers Gozo which requires the purchase of a euro 1.50 day rider). Outside all the bus stop flags had route numbers with final destinations clearly shown and timetables for all routes.

 

Once away from the airport the situation is much improved. The majority of vehicles are in Arriva livery and staff are in smart Malta Public Transport uniforms. Public information is clear and concise in a format familiar to UK travellers, being produced by FWT. A full colour A4 route map of both islands is freely available, but timetable booklets are not produced, although information is readily available on the internet before arrival and by SMS once on the island, neither of which is necessary as all bus stops on the islands have timetables, route numbers and final destination on the flag. Valletta bus station has an information kiosk with route maps and stand departures information adorning the exterior walls, Sliema ferries interchange has a simalar Kiosk and Gozo has a new four bay bus station. On street ticket machine are located at various locations, although they never seem to be used, this could be because of the difficulty in reading the screens in bright sunlight, most passengers elect to pay the driver.

 

An Arriva King Long in Valletta bus station.

Routes from Valletta and Victoria(Rabat) Gozo are planned on a hub and spoke system with groupings of route numbers following major arterial roads, e.g. 51,52, 53 Valletta - Rabat(Mdina), and then splitting off to suburbs or rural villages, often in one way loops, reminiscent of First Bus in this country, 51 to Imtarfa, 52 Dingli, 53 Rabat suburbs. Each service is on a thirty-minute headway providing a ten-minute interval along the main corridor. Services operate from early morning until late night Monday to Saturday with a slight reduction on some routes on Sundays. Night routes operate between Valletta and Sliema, and Marsaxlokk receives a Sunday only X85 service to cover heavy tourist loadings leaving the 85 with capacity for the locals. Timetables are adhered to and schedules allow for sedate progress on the route. Driving standards have greatly improved, passengers no longer cross themselves when boarding and buses no longer carry an image of the virgin Mary.

 

Before discussing the buses and making any conclusions on their condition, it is worthwhile briefly looking at the condition of Maltese roads. They fall into three standards; short lengths of modern highway with smooth tarmac, generally paid for by the EU; urban streets with some rough lengths, not dissimilar from the worst roads in Britain, and finally rural roads, best described as potholes occasionally connected with tarmac. The majority of vehicles operated by Malta Public Transport are King Longs, either 9-meter XMQ6900J or 12-meter XMQ6127J. Although these represent the current offering from King Long, and are all low floor, they do not match standards normally associated with most European manufactures. Rough engines and mis-matched gearboxes give a ride reminiscent of an AEC Swift or Bristol RE. The exterior bodywork on the first deliveries is showing signs of quite severe rusting, whilst the interiors look worn and in need of refurbishment on all the fleet, and the much heralded air conditioning has given up with windows and roof vents being open. Would any European manufactured vehicles stand the rigors of such intensive utilisation and high passenger numbers? Passenger loadings are on a level we would associate with London or Hong Kong and vehicles operate for eighteen plus hours a day. One redeeming feature is the telematics. Large continually scrolling screens are fitted on all vehicles and display bi-lingual route direction and next stop information in Malti and English, although the volume of the associated audio announcements is set to low to be audible. The King Long fleet is supplemented on Gozo by an Optare Solo Hybrid and on Malta by a small number of BMC Falcons, Optare Solo Hybrids, Saracakis bodied Volvo B7RLE and Scarnif bodied MANs.

 

Independent operator in Valletta bus station.

In a desperate move to cover the withdraw of ex London Mercedes-Benz artics, Malta Public Transport contracted former independents to cover several routes and provide peek hour additions to other routes. Routes covered in their entirety by independents are X2; X3; X4; X5 and X7, all providing cross island services focused on the airport. Vehicles used are a mix of full size buses and coaches, including former Reading Transport YN56 FBF, Scania Omnicity still in Vodafone red and with full Reading legal lettering, now operated by Peppin Transport. Some of these vehicles carry ticket machines provided by the transport authority, although no attempt is made to collect revenue or check tickets. Three minibus routes are also covered, the 201 Airport - Blue Grotto - Rabat(Mdina) and the combined 101/102 Ghajn - Mellieha - Cirkewwa, all services are hourly. None of the vehicles carry a ticket machine, and again no attempt is made to collect revenue or check tickets, and the timetable has a more liberal interpretation. The 201 is proving problematic as the Blue Grotto is a major tourist attraction and only nineteen seats per hour are provided in each direction with no standing allowed, although we did manage twenty-four seated passengers on one occasion. Passengers between terminus points are left standing at stops with no alternative, and this was out-of-season.

 

In April 2014 the Maltese government issued an update statement. It confirms a leasing agreement for forty-three new air-conditioned buses. There has been three expressions of interest in taking over the operating franchise, two from local Maltese companies and one from the Spanish subsidiary of National Express. UK operators McGills and National Express have already dismissed any involvement, citing lack of transparency on the part of the Maltese government. The Government also reported a further 7% drop in revenue between January and March 2014.

 

Optare Solo in Gozo.

So is the situation any better than twenty six years ago? The answer is a most definitely yes. Whilst many may bemoan the loss of the iconic Maltese bus, like the Routemaster in London, they had no place in a modern, intense transport operation. Some areas still need addressing; driver communication skills with passengers are sadly lacking; revenue enforcement; vehicle maintenance, occasional roadside breakdowns were noted and the aroma of hot oil and diesel not uncommon; Valletta bus station requires the finishing touches, removal of the portacabins and inclusion of stands 16 and 17 into the main concourse, three of the fifteen stands have already been demolished by drivers overshooting the stop ramps and need repairing, finally, Cirkewwa terminus needs the finishing touches, currently being devoid of marked bays despite being the third busiest interchange. The management of Malta Public Transport are doing a sterling job in the face of intense political interference. The island now has a recognisable modern network with reliable timetables and buses, driven by professional well trained staff. Arriva should be proud of its legacy, just don't mention the artics. 

Bus and Coach World