Malta 2024 – Bring a cushion.

 

BUS 111, King Long XMQ6127J entering Marsaskala seafront at high tide.

A third visit to this wonderful island and a third operator in charge of the public transport network. During the first visit the buses were operated by independents and their eclectic mix of vehicles; Arriva were in charge during the second visit and this year it was ALSA, using the Malta Public Transport (MPT) brand. The 430 buses are now a modern mix of King Long (diesel and electric) and Otokar, with Mercedes Benz making up the majority of the rest.

Pre-planning a trip is easy using the MPT website, and purchasing a travel card from the airport information desk could not be simpler. For €25 you get seven days unlimited travel on the network in Malta and Gozo, a single trip cost €2.50. Unfortunately, what you do not get is a comfortable seat as the buses are fitted with Kiel seats covered in moquette without any padding, hence the title of this article.

Stepping outside the airport terminal, the bus stops are directly in front of you. We were staying in Valletta, so required the X4 which operates every 30 minutes to the central bus station, although in reality you alight on Vjal Lr-Re Dwardu VII, just in front of the Triton Fountain.

Valletta Bus Station is a modern L shaped open-air concourse with the majority of local routes departing from the ‘A’ bays nearest to the Triton Fountain, whilst longer routes depart from ‘B’ bays, around the corner from the main concourse. Day 2 and the first bus of the day departed from bay A2, the 10.10am No.1 to Isla with a journey time of 23 minutes. Isla (Senglea) with an area of just over half a square mile is the most densely populated locality in Europe. The bus terminates in the heart of the town by reversing into a two-bus bay in the town square. After an extensive walk around the undulating streets, the next journey was to be on the 12.56pm departure of route 124 from Isla to Marsaskala. However, the bus failed to arrive and some quick thinking was required to find an alternative way between the two towns. The next departure was service 1 to Valletta and the solution was to take this bus until it reached the main road and then change onto service 91 coming from Valletta and terminating in Marsaskala, which runs every 12 minutes. Service 91 enters Marsaskala along the sea front, passing the bus terminus and doing a loop around the headland before returning to the bus terminus. Once a Roman port, Marsaskala is home to around 12,000 inhabitants and a pleasant place to while away a couple of hours. Service 91 would provide us with a final journey of the day back to Valletta, departing Marsaskala through the narrow back streets before entering an area of open countryside and returning to the densely populated villages of Fgura and Paola. 

Day 3 is another warm sunny October day and this morning’s departure is 9.50am on route 74 from bay A5 in the bus station, alighting in Zurrieq. Not the prettiest of routes as it skirts the industrial warehouses around the perimeter of the airport before serving the villages of Mqabba and Qrendi. The majority of passengers alight at the Ħaġar Qim Park Visitor Centre just before the bus turns onto the coast road and the remainder of the passengers alight to walk down the hill and visit the Blue Grotto. We opt to remain on board and continue to Zurrieq in the hope of getting a seat on the next bus which is coming from the airport. Zurrieq town square with its public toilets and cafe claims to have a bus station, in reality it is a bus stop used by seven routes. This morning, the first bus to arrive is a Mercedes Benz Citaro driver trainer, departing just ahead of our bus which is the 10.54am service 201. The 201 is a scenic route along the south west coast road, retracing our previous route 74 as far as the turning for the Blue Grotto. This time turning off the coast road and travelling downhill to the village of Wied Iż-Żurrieq, passing several passengers who alighted from the 74 thirty minutes earlier. Thirty-four years ago at this point the driver stood up, touched the effigy of the Virgin Mary, made the sign-of-the-cross, sat back down, released the handbrake and coasted down the hill on a road more rustic than it is today. The remainder of the journey has far reaching sea and coastal views followed by historic towns and villages before climbing to the hill top city of Rabat and the fortified citadel of Mdina 47 minutes later. The evening return to Valletta is a case of standing at the central bus stop in Rabat and boarding the first bus that comes along, having a choice of six routes. However, on this evening there are wide gaps in the services, and by the time a bus arrives it becomes a scrum to board. Not for the first time we will learn that in Malta there is no such thing as a full bus.

ALSA, Malta Public Transport BUS 650, Otokar Vectio C (9.6-metre). Sitting at the Isla terminus.

Day 4 and the longest day. Service 41 departs from bay B6 at 9.30am heading for Cirkewwa, the departure point for the Gozo ferry. A journey time of 1hr 53mins with much of the first half through urban sprawl between Valletta and Mosta, before hitting open countryside on route to St. Paul’s Bay and the coast, climbing to Mellieħa before descending to Cirkewwa. The next challenge is running the gauntlet of sightseeing ticket touts that stand between the bus and ferry ticket office, with just enough time to purchase a €4.65 return ticket to Gozo. Once on-board, time for tea and buns before arrival at Gozo and facing the next line of sightseeing touts and scrum for the service bus. From this point the day is flexible, getting on the first bus that comes along. A surprise to find a new Foton electric bus, operating the short park & ride service to the top of the hill, is sitting at the bus stop. First normal service bus to arrive on the stop was operating route 323 to the capital Victoria via several small villages either side of the main road. Victoria (Rabat) is the capital of Gozo: it is known for the medieval Citadel and has a bus station in the town centre. After lunch and a good walk, by late afternoon we are back at the bus station in time to board service 310 for the eleven-minute journey to the seaside resort of Marsalforn. We remain onboard whilst the bus makes a one-way loop around the town and alight at a central bus stop, just a few yards from the seafront. This is a ‘bucket & spade’ resort with a pleasant promenade filled with bars and cafes. The final journey on Gozo is service 322 back to the ferry and it is a real surprise. This is the most scenic bus route on Gozo/Malta, climbing through open countryside visiting the villages of Xagħra and Nadur before descending into the ferry port. Once back on Malta it was another case of first bus to come along heading in the direction of Valletta or Sliema, and it turned out to be the 41. The twilight ride gave the opportunity to see how the urban areas transform after dark.

Final full day and a short 23-minute journey on service 2 from stand A2 in the Valletta bus station to Birgu. The route was scheduled to terminate in the town square, however after serving the waterfront we returned to the main road and headed up hill to the coach park outside the Inquisitors’ Palace. No word from the driver, but as the engine was turned off we assumed this was the end of the route. A short walk down into town explained all, the square was under reconstruction with no vehicular access. Birgu, population 2633, is an ancient maritime city known as ‘Citta Vittoriosa’ and is packed with history, artistic and architectural interest as well as moorings for large super yachts. Late in the day, we rejoined service 2 on the waterfront, heading for a ten-minute layover in the coach park before returning to Valletta. 

It’s the final day and after spending the morning mooching around Valletta, as the rain set in, we head for one final time to the bus station and stand B3 for the X4 back to the airport. 

Malta is a wonderful out of season destination, with mild sunny days and easy to navigate by bus. At €25 the seven-day bus ticket is great value, provided you don’t mind a numb bum.

BUS 294, Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 516CDi about to depart the bus station on service 133 Valletta Circular.

BUS 216, King Long Amigo Electric departs Valletta Bus Station.

BUS 892, arrives into Zurrieq on service 201 to Rabat.

GVN 834, Foton C10 EV operating the Mġarr (Gozo) park & ride service.

Victoria (Gozo) bus station.

Omnibus World

Unexpected electric.

 Warrington BV24 LUJ, Volvo BZL with MCV body departing from Warrington bus station.

The uncertainty began the moment I stepped outside the front door. The first service of the day was the 22 between West Kirby (Wirral) and Chester operated by Al’s: they lost the Happy a few years ago. The problem with this service is that early running is the norm rather than the exception and is linked to how long and how frequent the drivers like for a cigarette break. Unfortunately, speed and driving style also leave a lot to be desired. Previous experience had shown that the three-minute connection with the Traws Cymru service at Chester bus station was possible. But, the best laid plans……….

Today the bus came along on time (Optare Metrocity V1010MC B36F, ex New Adventure Travel), the journey was sedate and by the time we arrived in Chester, with a full load of passengers, we were seven minutes late. As the bus pulled into the bus station, the driver of the service into Wales gave our driver a cheery wave, and that was the connection gone. However, I had a plan B, by the time I strolled around the bus station concourse, waiting on the same stand as the bus I had just missed, was an Arriva X30 heading for Warrington and the opportunity to look at the new Volvo BZL/MCV electrics. The bus was standard Arriva DAF/Wright for the 1hr 22mins journey to Warrington via Frodsham and Runcorn. Saturday running times leave plenty of slack and there was time to admire Frodsham farmers market before circumnavigating the Runcorn Busway, a road system that always confuses me. We travelled at a leisurely pace, arriving a few minutes early into the modern Warrington bus station, with its adjoining large indoor shopping centre. At first glance, things did not look hopeful, only one electric bus and that was parked up, out of service. But first-things-first, lunch and loo.

What a difference a day makes: sorry wrong song. Thirty-minutes later and there was a sea of yellow in the bus station, with the electrics coming and going on several routes. Time for a ride, as befits the developing theme of the day, whatever comes in next will be the bus to board. As luck would have it, it turned out to be a 32 to Widnes Market, a convenient location for an onward service to Liverpool. The Volvo BZL did not disappoint, with a pleasant interior, well-spaced seats and clear audio-visual presentation and no intrusive rattles. The driver, whilst professional, was very keen to take advantage of the rapid, smooth acceleration, and on corners, there was a sensation that the bus was compensating for all the weight in the roof by somehow forcing itself into an upright stance. Not an unpleasant sensation, just unusual. The 32 proved an interesting route with plenty of variation over its short distance. Passing through traditional housing alongside the Old Liverpool Road, before a short sprint on a dual-carriageway and a one-way circuit of Penketh village which the audio-visual informed us was a hail and ride area. The final section was a tour of two large housing estates before entering Widnes via the old high street and finally the new edge of town shopping centre. Objective achieved and we arrived at Widnes. As per the theme of the day, whatever Liverpool bound service comes along first, I will jump on.

It turns out to be an 82A, operated by Arriva. Taking 1hr 18min, the route heads out of Widnes through two housing estates before hitting open countryside, passing through the villages of Halebank and Hale. Just a few yards after leaving the conservation village of Hale is the perimeter fence of Liverpool John Lennon Airport and it was a strange sight to be confronted by an Airbus A320 taxing to the end of the runway, ready for take-off. Before reaching the airport proper, there was the delight of Speke, a large housing estate that you would not want to linger in. The bus entered the airport via a back gate, requiring permission from security to pass through two barriers, with warning signs on the roadside telling drivers of financial penalties if they stop on the road. Plenty of time to spare at the airport bus station with the driver inviting any passengers who fancied a smoke to join him on the concourse. The final stretch of the bus journey started with a drive through the rundown area of Garston before turning onto the A561 for a long start/stop drag towards the city centre and into Liverpool One Bus Station.

After all that sitting down, a chance to stretch the legs, with an enjoyable walk along the waterfront before heading across the city centre to Sir Thomas Street and the final bus of the day. It was a case of boarding either the 471 or 472 whichever came along first. However the primary objective was to achieve a front seat on the top deck, this being the first double-decker of the day and enjoy the ride through the Mersey Tunnel. On weekdays this is not a problem because the services start at Cook Street, a quieter stop at the top of town, but at weekends the services turns short and boarding becomes a scramble. As luck would have it a 471 is the first bus to come along and one hour later it delivered me to the same stop I departed from eight hours earlier.

Phew, must be wine time.

BV24 LRJ parked in the bus station.

Omnibus World

Two days in Dunedin, New Zealand 2011.

 

Otago Road Services Ltd AQW935. Leyland Leopard PSU3E/2R with NZMB/Hess B45D body, new 1980 to Dunedin City Council Transport Department as JK3010. Transferred to Citibus Ltd in 1991, sold to Otago in 2002. Sold to Otago Heritage Bus Society Incorporated, Dunedin.

Dunedin is the administrative centre for the Otago region and the second largest city on the South Island of New Zealand after Christchurch. It is a harbour city of about 134,000 people, almost one fifth of residents are students. Famously, Dunedin is home to Baldwin Street, which, according to the Guinness Book of Records, is the steepest street in the world. The first trolleybuses operated in 1950 and by the 1960s the city had 76 trolleybuses, however by 1983 all trolleybuses had gone.

Otago Road Services Ltd. FSM635, MAN SL202, Coachwork International B45D, new in 1986. ex MT9705; ex (620) MT9705, Red Bus Ltd, Christchurch. Sold to Tramway Historical Society Inc, Ferrymead, Christchurch.

Buses in Dunedin are organised by the Otago Regional Council. A total of 64 buses currently operates on 25 bus routes. Dunedin City Council-owned operator Citibus was the major operator until 2011 when Passenger Transport (New Zealand) purchased Citibus from Dunedin City Holdings, and was subsequently bought by Go Bus. In 2024 the operation is part of Kinetic NZ.

Otago Road Services Ltd. FDN478, MAN SL202 with CWI B57D body, new 1986 as NF2114 to Christchurch Transport Board later Red Bus (a City owned company). Changed registration November 2009. Sold to Otago Heritage Bus Society Incorporated, Dunedin and a later sale to Ferrymead Mens Shed (Canterbury Bus Museum), Christchurch.

In 2011 driving into the city centre from the south, you immediately came across the bus depot which is located at the junction of Princes Street and Melville Street, just south of the city centre and a short distance from the Octagon where most services passed through. One of the few advantages of cruise ships docking in a city is the amount of extra passenger traffic they create: a great benefit to the bus enthusiast as it proved on day two of our visit when vehicles from the second largest operator in the area, Otago Road Services, were out and about.

Passenger Transport Services CHW222, MAN 12.223 with Designline B39D body, new 2004. ex Citibus Ltd, Dunedin and Red Bus Ltd, Christchurch. In 2024 with Kinetic NZ at the Invercargill depot.

Established in 1947, Otago Road Services operated buses commercially and under contract to Otago Regional Council. The private routes that had run since the 1950s from Dunedin to Green Island, Abbotsford and Fairfield were lost in 1991 as a result of tendering by Otago Regional Council who took responsibility for the network of bus services in the late 1980s. Otago Road Services were successfully in regaining some routes in the 2002 tender round, however, were lost to Dunedin City Council-owned Citibus, in 2006 round of tenders. Otago continue to operate a fleet of private hire and school bus vehicles.

Passenger Transpot Services ATS393, MAN 10.155 with Ansair Orana B27D body, new 1997.

2024 update, gathered from local press reports.

The central bus hub, established in 2019, is now located on Great King Street. In 2023 Go Bus were reported to be planning to move the depot from Princes Street to Portsmouth Drive making way for residential development. Go Bus is introducing 16 new buses on urban routes, these will be Volvo B7 with Kiwi Bus Builders bodies. In early February 2024, Ritchies introduced 11 Yutong E10 battery electric buses to its fleet. 

Passenger Transport Ltd CHW221, MAN 12.223 with Designline B39D body, new 2004. Ex Citibus, Dunedin and Red Bus Ltd, Christchurch. In 2023 with Kinetic NZ at the Dunedin depot.

Citibus Ltd WA1240, Dennis Dart with Designline B39D body, new 1997 to Ritchies. Ex Red Bus Ltd, Christchurch. Now sold for non-PSV use.

Line-up at the Dunedin bus depot, located at the junction of Princes Street and Melville Street. Just a short walk from the city centre.

Dunedin bus depot with DZG301, MAN 10.150 with Designline B33D body dating from 1989 for sale. It was sold for non-PSV use. Note the Bristol VRT, registration TQ7480 in the background. 

Omnibus World

Skagway, Alaska at the turn of the century.

 

Westours (Westours Motor Coaches, Inc.) coaches in the depot Skagway, Alaska.

The Municipality of Skagway Borough, located in the Upper Lynn Canal at the head of Taiya Inlet, is home to the northernmost ice-free, deep-water port in North America and known today as a port of call for many of the cruise ships plying these waters.

Skagway is historically considered the gateway to the Gold Rush of 1898, and today has a permanent population of 1,240. For the road traveller there are two ways of approaching the town - either by car aboard the Alaska Marine Highway System ferry that plies its trade from Bellingham, Washington State to Homer Alaska, or driving from Yukon, Canada via the White Pass.

This might seem unlikely territory for a major coach operation, but a short walk from downtown on the Klondike Highway soon dispels that notion. There, on the right-hand side of the road is what today is known as the HAP (Holland America Line and Princess) Bus Yard which supplies vehicles for the cruise ships in Alaska and Canada's Yukon. A collaboration of both cruise companies with headquarters in Anchorage, Alaska and operating just under 300 motorcoaches. Before HAP came HAL, Holland America Line (Westours), Inc., a holding company that controlled three subsidiaries: Westours Motor Coaches,  Evergreen Trails and Westmark Hotels of Canada. On 8^th April 2002 HAL acquired Horizon Coach Lines Ltd., with its operations mainly concentrated in Canada.

Gone are the days of the gold rush, replaced by the rush of motorcoaches as they whisk the cruise passenger on day excursions into the Yukon and woo betide any car driver that gets in their way. On one occasion a convoy of coaches was preceded by an escort vehicle clearing the road ahead to ensure speed was maintained on the steep inclines.

For a more sedate experience the Skagway Street Car Company operates a sightseeing tour from the historic downtown area, and at the time were using White Model 706s dating from 1936/37. I believe these vehicles are now located in Yellowstone National Park. The company makes tentative historic links to Martin Itjen, who in 1923 gave Alaska's first motorized sightseeing tour in Skagway.

The best time to enjoy Skagway is when all the cruise ships have gone and the town reverts to its sleepy, dusty former frontier self. Walking along the boardwalk you can almost hear the jangle of spurs, so grab a stetson and find your inner John Wayne.       

Prevost Model: H5-60. Westours (Westours Motor Coaches, Inc.). 1990 Prevost Model: H5-60 coach in the depot Skagway, Alaska. Sold to Absolute Charters. Converted into an RV in October 2019.

 Skagway Street Car Company, 1936 White Model 706.

Skagway Street Car Company. 1937 White Model 706.

Omnibus World

Summer Breezer

We're going where the sun shines brightly, we're going where the sea is blue, we've seen it in the timetable, now let's see if it's true - to paraphrase dear old Sir Cliff.

So begins the annual pilgrimage to the Dorset coast and riding the ‘more’ Breezer network. In 2024 the network consists of six routes: 30 Swanage to Weymouth; 31 Wool to Lulworth; 40 Poole to Swanage; 50 Bournemouth to Swanage; 60 Rockley Park to Sandbanks and 70 Rockley Park to Mudeford.

  HJ16 HSZ a Volvo B5TL with MCV PO43/30F body about to board the Poole/Sandbanks ferry.

Rather than start in chronological order let’s begin with probably the most popular and best-known route: the 50. A year-round service operating half-hourly for most of the day from 7am until 11pm. Most of the passengers tend to travel from Bournemouth to Swanage in the morning, returning in the opposite direction from early afternoon. In summer the route is operated by semi open-toppers making the top deck extremely popular. To bag a prime seat (top-deck front, under cover) on an early departure, it is best to board at Bournemouth Railway Station. 14 minutes later the bus arrives at Bournemouth Square which in recent years was home to the battle of the oldies as concessionary passholders fought to board, and it made headlines in the national press. The bus continues ducking-and-diving through local residential roads before reaching Sandbanks, home to some of the most expensive residential properties in Britain. For many visitors, especially those from overseas, the next part of the journey is the most exciting as the bus boards the Sandbanks ferry to cross the mouth of Poole Harbour and then continues along the Studland peninsular and into Swanage, terminating in front of the Swanage Steam Railway station. 

First Bus WYY 752 (W806 EOW) a Volvo B7TL with Alexander body about to depart Swanage Railway Station on service X50 to Weymouth.

Swanage railway forecourt is one of two hubs for the Breezer network, the other being Poole. Swanage is also the departure point for the only competition on the Breezer network, with First Bus competing against Breezer 30 with its four times a day X50. Departing 5 minutes ahead of the 30 and taking a slightly longer and more in-land route to arrive in Weymouth 15 minutes after the 30. Jurassic Breezer 30, to give it its full marketing name, is operated by Go Ahead more and at its peak, eight round trips a day are made with three of the journeys continuing from Weymouth to Dorchester. Taking 1 hour 50 minutes end to end, the route starts with a fast run along the A351 to Corfe Castle, a call into Purbeck Park (Norden Station on the steam railway), then travelling through Wareham High Street to Wareham Station. Before heading west, the bus returns to Wareham High Street and then heads for another railway station, this time it’s Wool, which surprisingly turns out to be a popular boarding point with visitors wanting to get to Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door. The 19-minute section of the journey between Wool and Lulworth Cove is supplemented by eight times a day Breezer 31. This long, narrow, twisting downhill section of the route turns in the Lulworth Cove car park, with a short layover before commencing the long uphill climb to Durdle Door, undoubtedly the most scenic section of the entire route, although the final few miles along the A353 into Weymouth are also worth the trip. This being a seasonal service, the buses used on the route are towards the end of their working life and lack many modern refinements, which may for some make the trip something of an endurance test.

                  HW58 ASO, Scania N230UD arrives into Weymouth on Breezer 30 from Swanage.

Back at Swanage, the third Breezer route departing from the station forecourt is the 40, a year-round service to Poole, operated by Go Ahead ‘more’ Swanage depot with Volvo/MCVs being the mainstay. The timetable is hourly between 6am and midnight. Unlike route 30, the 40 leaves Swanage on the B3069 climbing up through Langton Matravers to give views over the coast and countryside to the Isle of Wight in one direction and Corfe Castle in the other, before descending via two steep double bends onto the A351 and heading for Wareham. From Wareham to Poole the route becomes a more traditional bus service, deviating of the main road to serve two large holiday parks, local schools and the large residential areas making up the Poole suburbs, before arriving into Poole bus station.

 Go Ahead South Coast more YBZ 224 (HJ02 HFC). Volvo B7TL, East Lancs CO45/31F. Photographed in Bournemouth Square during a driver change over on the long Breezer 70 service.

Poole bus station is the second ‘hub’ for the Breezer network. Route 60 Rockley Park to Sandbanks; 70 Rockley Park to Mudeford and the aforementioned 40 from Swanage. The 60 and 70 both start from Rockley Park, a very large caravan site on the edge of Poole Harbour. Both bus services cross Poole Harbour bridge giving fine views of the inner harbour and town quay before travelling through the old town to the bus station. The 60 continues around the harbour to Sandbanks giving views of the natural scenery and the front gardens of many expensive homes. The end-to-end journey time is 50 minutes and operates hourly, interspersed with hourly short workings between Sandbanks and Poole bus station. The 70 on the other hand is the longest by end-to-end time of all the routes, taking 2 hours 25 minutes and is the only route to operate entirely within an urban area. Leaving Poole, the bus takes a convoluted route through the residential areas close to the shoreline before dropping down to Branksome Chine and eight minutes later Alum Chine and reaching Bournemouth 50 minutes after leaving Poole. Dramatic views start to appear of the coastline and Isle of Weight as the bus climbs out of the town centre and onto the cliff overdrive heading for Boscombe. After a short inland diversion, the bus drops down to Boscombe Pier before rejoining the cliff overdrive all the way to Hengistbury Head. From there, it is inland through Christchurch before briefly returning to the coast at Mudeford. Then the route heads inland before terminating at the large Hoburne Naish holiday caravan park. Quite some ride bearing in mind that both the 60 and 70 are operated by fully open-top double-deckers, well past their first flush of youth and with the top deck structure removed they tend to flex and creak, making for a choppy ride.

      Go Ahead more HF05 GGX. Volvo B7TL/East Lancs CO49/29F, at Sandbanks on Breezer 60.

The Breezer network is a great way to access this wonderful part of Dorset. Combine Breezer routes with normal scheduled services from Go Ahead more and Damory, and you get a series of circular journeys taking you inland through some outstanding scenery with plenty of time to hum along with Sir Cliff.     

                                 

                                                                    Omnibus World

Cotswolds and beyond.

 

Stagecoach Optare Solo OU13 DZF having departed the Burford terminus, climbs the hill to its first stop on route back to Witney. The driver about to be swamped by school children who walked down the hill to ensure a seat before the bus reaches the second stop opposite Burford school.   

Five dry days in March 2024: yes, they were surprisingly and nicely timed for a short break in the Cotswolds. Whilst it is feasible to travel from Winchester to Bourton-on-the-Water by public transport in a day, sadly a return on the same day is impossible as Stagecoach Hampshire insist that we are tucked up indoors by 5.30pm. However, travelling by car had its advantages, with the timing of the afternoon tea stop coinciding with the mass exodus of buses and coaches from Burford Secondary school at 3pm. 

 

 

 Go Ahead Pulham’s PUI 9493. A Volvo B9TL with East Lancs Myllennium CH63/39F body, new to Weavaway as OU05 AVY, takes the roundabout on the A40 at speed having just departed Burford school heading towards Witney. The Prince of Burford pub has a garden overlooking the roundabout, ideal to kill two birds with one stone.

For a small rural town with a population of 4,178, Bourton-on-the Water has a remarkably good bus service network - thanks to Pulham’s Travel who have been based in the town since 1860 and operate all the services apart from one community route. The timetables can appear random as many are designed to fit around schools’ work. Nevertheless, residents and visitors alike seem content with the timetable anomalies and services are heavily utilised even during the quiet off-season. On all three days of travel the day started at 10am when three route converge on Bourton and depart for Cheltenham, Cirencester and Kingham.

Day one started by boarding Pulham’s Optare Solo’s working service 855 to Cirencester. This is the second and last departure of the day, the first departure being at 7am for an extended school route beyond Cirencester to Fairford. The 855 is an indirect route of 55 minutes taking in many scenic villages including Arlington, that, even though it is only 10.37am, is already full of overseas visitors alighting from coaches operated by several London companies. Apparently, the popularity of Arlington is due to a visit made by Emperor Hirohito during his state visit to Britain. The bus finally arrives into Cirencester at 10.52am. The bus remains in Cirencester undertaking local short workings of the 855 until the return school run mid-afternoon, whilst we head off for a look around Cirencester and a cup of tea after photographing a Cotswold Green decker operating a town service to and from the hospital. For the next leg of the journey there is some flexibility as Stagecoach service 51 from Swindon to Cheltenham operates hourly. The 12.15pm departure arrives on time and despite coming in well loaded and a reasonable load waiting to board, we still managed to secure the top deck front seats of the Alexander bodied Scania for a very pleasant journey along the A435 which parallels the River Churn and arrive into Cheltenham 40 minutes later. Plenty of time for lunch and an hour at the bus/coach station and on The Promenade, where all except one Stagecoach service terminate, before boarding Pulham’s Mercedes Benz Citaro for the 4.30pm service 801 back to Bourton.  

Cotswold Green LJ04 LFX a VDL DB250 with Wright body still in Compass Travel livery laying over in Cirencester between journeys on service 58 the Hospital Circular.

 

Day two and another Pulham’s Optare Solo, this time on route 802 to Kingham Railway Station via The Rissingtons and Stow-on-the-Wold. This is a round trip to enjoy the typical Cotswold villages and scenery: the route designed to feed passengers into the Great Western train service between London Paddington and Hereford. The first service of the day departs Bourton at 5.30am and the last journey back arrives at 7.35pm. We depart a little after 10am with two other passengers on board and pick up no other passengers along the entire route. Our two other intrepid passengers alight in Stow and we arrive at Kingham station 43 minutes after departure. We hop off on the station forecourt and wait whilst the driver has his five-minute layover at the far end of the station car park. Reboarding, the bus follows the same route back to Stow before using different narrow lanes to reach Upper Rissington where a mother and son board, both known to the driver as there appears to be no fare collection made. The final leg of the journey back into Bourton differs from the outward leg going via Little Rissington, a village that clings to the side of a steep valley dissected by a narrow, twisting road and we arrive back into Bourton at 11.27am. Time to nip back to the accommodation, located next to the car museum, for a mid-morning coffee before heading out again. By 12.20pm we are back at the bus stop, this time heading north on the 801 for the 30-minute journey to Moreton-in-the-Marsh via Stow and lunch in the pub. A little over an hour later we are back waiting for the 801 and a 10-minute journey back to Stow aboard one of Pulham’s Mercedes Benz Citaro’s. Stow is a lovely little village spoilt by the busy A429 running through it. The buses enter the main village square and compete with cars for parking/layover space, made more interesting when the buses in each direction meet in the square. Plenty of time for a stroll down through the village to the coach park located at the rear of the main car park, before boarding yet another Citaro on the 801 and returning to Bourton.

Pulham’s Optare Solo YJ14 BWH at Kingham, Railway Station on service 802 from Bourton-on-the-Water. Kingham station is on the Great Western line between London Paddington and Hereford with one stopping service per hour. Route 802 serves the station seven times a day with the first arrival at 6.13am and final departure at 7.25pm. The 802 runs a varying route throughout the day, covering many of the smaller villages between Bourton and Kingham. 

 

Pulham’s VO17 EOB (L99 NHS), Mercedes-Benz Citaro O295. Photographed in Stow-on-the-Wold waiting time, having arrived from Chipping Norton and on route to Cheltenham. Since the visit in March 2024 the rather erratic timetable has now been given an even hourly headway and a Sunday service has been introduced.

Day three and it’s time once again to board the 801. This time heading towards Cheltenham along the A436 affording great views of the rolling Cotswold hills. The bus turns left onto the A40, heading away from Cheltenham, turning next right for a tour of Andoversford then rejoining the A40, this time heading in the right direction for Cheltenham. Before reaching Cheltenham coach station the 801 takes an indirect route to call at, on the right Cheltenham General Hospital, with its grand portico entrance, and on the left the equally imposing grounds and buildings of Cheltenham College. A short but swift bit of exercise from the coach station, around the corner to the Promenade where Stagecoach local services depart and immediately board Stagecoach Gold 94 for Gloucester via Gloucestershire Airport. Entering Gloucester passed the Stagecoach depot (Tram shed) and into the newish transport hub interchange with 30 minutes before the next bus, so time for a tea. The café within the hub has closed requiring a quick walk along Clarence Street, where all Stagecoach local services layover and enter the time warp that is Poppins with its formica covered tables and plastic seats. The cafe appears to act as the Stagecoach canteen and serves a cup of tea that is so weak it is a wonder it had the strength to leave the cup. 

Pulham’s DD23 BUS Volvo B8RLE, MCV Evora in Bourton-on-the Water about to depart on the 10am service 801 to Cheltenham.

 

Back at the hub a Stagecoach Scania with AD body stands ready to transport us on a tour of the Forest of Dean. Route 22 follows the River Severn before taking an anti-clockwise route through the Forest of Dean, via Littledean and Cinderford to Coleford. The route must be one of the most tortuous for a double-decker in England with the double S bend of Church Hill into the village of Upper Lydbrook being the most dramatic of all, but the Scania makes light of the terrain. Cinderford has a small bus station with two single-deckers, one Stagecoach and one from Willetts Coaches, and another Stagecoach double-decker already in situ when we arrive, necessitating some nifty manoeuvring on our driver’s part. Leaving Cinderford we pick up several shoppers and many students from the local college, all of whom remain on the bus whilst it lays over for a few minutes in Coleford before becoming the 23. We leave the bus and seek lunch with 60 minutes before the next 22 arrives and becomes the 23 that we will catch. Another Scania arrives and despite most of the passengers remaining on board we manage to bag the front seats on the top deck and the 23 continues our anti-clockwise tour of the Forest. Edging ever closer to the Welsh border, the next largish settlement is Bream followed by Whitecroft where we cross over the tracks of the preserved Dean Forest Railway. We follow the railway tracks and river Lyd south for some distance, arrive into Lydney and what remains of the bus station. After a short lay over, it is just a short distance to the A48 and we turn left and follow the River Severn back to Gloucester.

Go Ahead Pulham’s M99 NHS (OX68 BSC) a Wright StreetDeck HEV originally with Oxford Bus. The livery is for service 99 between Gloucester and Cheltenham serving Cheltenham General Hospital and Gloucester Royal Hospital Monday to Friday from 6am until 8pm.

From Gloucester, the route back to Cheltenham is aboard a former City of Oxford Wright Streetdeck HEV belonging to Pulham’s and used on route 99 NHS. From the transport hub the service calls at Gloucester Royal Hospital where there is a long queue of passengers, most of whom want this bus and we depart with a full load. Almost immediately the bus comes to a standstill as traffic builds up waiting for the level crossing gates to open. Once clear of the city, it is a straight run along the A40 dual-carriageway although the steady incline almost defeats our bus, but we make it over the motorway junction and into Arle Court Park & Ride, where the majority of passengers alight. The remainder of the passengers alight at Cheltenham General Hospital leaving just us to alight at the coach station. Just six strides across the pavement and a twenty-minute wait, it is back on the 801 and retracing that morning’s first trip. However, a lorry blocking the single-track lane in Andoversford whilst loading a tractor caused the arrival into Bourton to be twenty-five minutes late. The pub was open, the journeys over, time to take stock: tomorrow it’s back to the car.          

Warning, this article refers to journeys made in March 2024. Since then, Go Ahead Group have made changes to Pulham’s timetables, including more regular headways and increased days of operation. 

YT21 DVG, Scania N250UD, Alexander Dennis H43/28F body in route 10 livery about to depart Cheltenham. Route 10 operates between Cheltenham and Lower Tuffley via Gloucester on a 15-minute headway during the day and 30 minutes off peak Monday to Saturday, and every 20 minutes on Sunday. In addition to the 10, Stagecoach operate another five routes between Cheltenham and Gloucester.

 

Stagecoach Alexander Dennis E30D, PO12 HTC operates a city service in Gloucester, wearing a commemorative Gloucester Corporation heritage livery.

Cinderford Bus Station, Stagecoach and Willetts Coaches block the two bays whilst two Stagecoach double-deckers add to the congestion by attempting to manoeuvre around them.

Mid-morning line up at Pulham’s Bourton-on-the-Water depot.

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